What is the best dog food for Siberian Husky Puppy? Diet

Discussion in 'Siberian Husky' started by zara0625, Sep 25, 2009.

  1. zara0625

    zara0625 New Member

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    rhea

    What is the best dog food for Siberian Husky Puppy?

    hi,i have 3 months siberian puppy her name is Zara, do anyone here knows how to take care a sibe puppy??how will you know if the puppy has fever??what to do if she has diarrhea?what is the best food for husky?can she eat vegetables and fruits. i noticed my puppy always upset her stomach when she eat new food. She only eat dog food named Beefpro....thanks in advance
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  3. Labman

    Labman New Member

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    Ted
    If it is sick, see the vet. On going diarrhea in puppies is most often cause by parasites. Best to see the vet.

    In most cases a puppy is best off continuing what it is eating, at least until 4 months. I am not familiar with the BeefPro. In America nearly all the dog foods are formulated to meet the AAFCO requirements and many of them have some feeding tests done. Many people look at the ingredients going into the a food, but that doesn't you much. They must be in the right ratios and be properly processed to give the dog what it needs of each of many nutrients. There are many well proven foods made from ingredients many dislike. As long as the puppy seems to be doing well, I would stick to the BeefPro.

    What does a puppy need?

    A crate. It is only natural that a puppy resists its crate at first. What the puppy wants more than anything else is to be others, you, anyone else in the household, and any other pets. In our modern society, even if we are home, other things distract us from the attention an uncrated puppy must have. The only real solution is to crate the dog when you aren't around. The dog may be happier in its den than loose in the house. It relaxes, it feels safe in its den. It rests, the body slows down reducing the need for water and relieving its self. Dogs that have been crated all along do very well. Many of them will rest in their crates even when the door is open. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire rack in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but a piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I think the plastic ones give the dog more of a safe, enclosed den feeling. Metal ones can be put in a corner or covered with something the dog can't pull in and chew. Select a crate just big enough for the full grown dog to stretch out in. At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or singing, until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the pattern, a period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the crate.

    Chew toys. The pet stores are full of toys that many dogs will quickly chew up into pieces they could choke on or cause intestinal blockages. If you are not there to watch, stick to sturdy stuff such as Nylabones and Kongs. Keep a close eye on chew toys and quickly discard anything that is coming apart in pieces. Rawhide is especially bad because it swells after being swallowed. These problems are the worst with, but not limited to, large, aggressive chewers such as Labs.

    Food. Find out what the breeder is feeding. If it is dry chow you can buy readily, I would stick with it until the dog is 4 months old, at that time switching to a dry adult chow. If not, try to have the breeder give you a few days supply to use making a gradual change to a dry puppy chow.

    Dishes. Empty plastic food containers are good enough. If you want something nicer, buy the spill proof? ones. I have found them at Big Lots.

    A collar and leash. You should stay with a flat fabric or leather collar until your puppy is 5 months old. Then you can go with the metal slip collar with the rings on each end. Otherwise you could damage its windpipe. Put it on like this for the usual dog on the left position. Pull the chain through the one ring forming a"P". Facing the dog, slip it over its head. The free end comes over the neck allowing the other end to release pressure when the leash is slack. A five month old's head will still grow some. If you buy one that easily goes over the head, it still should come off leaving the ears when the dog finishes growing. I start the puppy out with a metal leash and switch to a leather one after the worst of the chewing is over and I need more control.

    A name, try http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/names/petnames.htm#1 and http://www.cat-dog-names.com/

    A brush. Start the puppy with a bristle brush. They don't shed much at first, and the bristle brush will remove dirt and help control odor. When shedding becomes a problem later, switch to a slicker brush with the wire teeth.

    The number of a vet. It is very hard to evaluate them. Dogs need more medical care than in the past. Many new problems are wide spread.

    A book. Any book is better than none at all. I like the Monks of New Skete and their The Art of Raising a Puppy, ISBN 0-316-57839-8.

    Obedience training. A good obedience class or book is about you being top dog, not about rewarding standard commands with a treat. Start obedience training the day you get the dog. Build on the foundation of housebreaking. The younger the puppy, the shorter you must keep sessions, only a few repetitions at a time. A few minutes here and there, and by the time the puppy is 4 months old, people will be impressed with what a nice dog it is.

    A Dogsley bookmark so you can come back for help as needed.

    I didn't forget treats, shampoo, and bedding. I seldom use them.
  4. zara0625

    zara0625 New Member

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    rhea
    Wow, this is amazing..I really really appreciated it. Thanks Labman!!
  5. gemma riley

    gemma riley New Member

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    Ragapawz
    Sibes often get a runny bum because they are being over fed. The do not need the amount it states on the side of packets as this is usually too much. If I ever have a sibe with a runny bum I firstly drop the amount of food. Go on the way the puppy looks and feels in your hands not what it says on a packet.
    Get a good medium breed complete puppy food and start forom there.

    Gemma
    x
  6. Jillray

    Jillray New Member

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    Jill
    You could try her on a barf diet, it's the most natural. I found it the best thing when my Alaskan Malamute had trouble with an upset stomach due to commercial food. Both my dogs are barf feed and I wouldn't go back to commercial dog foods again. If you want to know more about it just google barf diet.

    There will be plenty of people on here that can give you advice i'm sure, not everyone is a fan of the barf diet.

    Jill

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